Troy, NY: Where Historic Streets Meet Vibrant Art and Culture
I had been coming to the Hudson Valley regularly for work at Bard College’s annual music festival since 2005 before finally buying my first house in nearby Hudson, New York. Both sides of my family hail from Michigan but I knew I had roots on the East Coast. My mother’s grandfather was born in Woonsocket, RI, and his son, my grandfather, was born in at least partially raised in Troy, just northeast of the capital city of Albany.
Having forgotten this bit of family history for years, I was reminded of the address of the house where my grandfather had lived in the 1920s. I finally made a trip to see the house, paying my first visit to this wonderful and historic city. In the early 1900s, Troy was at one point the fourth wealthiest city in the country, which is made evident by the grand Victorian, Colonial Federal, Gothic, and Greek Revival mansions, townhouses and commercial buildings throughout the city. It is actually one of the best preserved cities in that regard, so much so that it’s become a popular filming location for period films, such as HBO’s The Gilded Age.
The Hart-Cluett House (Photo by Matthew Deming)
Named after the ancient Greek city, Troy was settled in the late 1700s and was officially recognized as a city in 1816. Because the city was situated at the confluence of several waterways, it was an ideal spot for several industries, including American Steel, in addition to the manufacturing of shirts, shirtwaists, detachable collars and cuffs, all made possible by taking advantage of the Hudson River’s water power.
The Burden Iron Works, now a museum, was once a part of a major iron mill complex along the Hudson, employing almost 2,000 men at its peak. In 1851, businessman Henry Burden developed one of the most powerful water wheels in existence for the Iron Works, powering the machinery that created horseshoes and railroad spikes. His invention inspired George Washington Gale Ferris and his famous Ferris Wheel!
The Hart-Cluett House and the Paine Mansion are two examples of the preserved architecture from Troy’s heyday. Tours to the former are limited to Fridays and Saturdays, but it’s a stunning house. The John Paine Mansion, or “The Castle,” was built in 1896 and has been not only a private home, once serving as a college, administrative building, and even a movie set. Work is underway to renovate the mansion, but tours are also available on a private basis, and there are a number of upcoming events on its official calendar.
Another big reason to get to know Troy is for the Troy Savings Bank Music Hall. In the 1870s, when the Troy Savings Bank needed a larger building from which to operate, builders included a performance hall on its top floors as a gift to the banks loyal patrons. While the hall went through a period of decline as Troy suffered financially, it finally made a full comeback in the 1970s and ‘80s and currently hosts not only the Albany Symphony Orchestra, of which I have attended several performances, but many other family musical groups over the years.
Troy’s overall popularity is on the rise despite a recent and slight decline in population growth. The city has attracted a new generation of residents fleeing other larger and more expensive cities such as New York City. There are really great places to eat, drink, and to sit and study over a coffee. Both Manary’s and Famous Lunch have been around for close to 100 years and have an authentic, local vibe. The Troy Waterfront Market is also a big draw, bringing fresh produce, meat, fish, baked goods and more to the community. And for a bit of nightlife, I love Lucas Confectionery. The space is industrial but chic and the drinks and atmosphere really give any NYC spot some competition.