Cairo Travel Log Part 2: The "Victorious" City is a Bridge Between the Old and the New
The following is a travel log documented by Nancy Prager-Kamel, Chairwoman of the Association of Foreign Press Corrrespondents (AFPC-USA).
Cairo is a city of vast social, economical and physical contrast. Trailing a corridor of well irrigated fertile land and lush vegetation you will alternatively find dusty desert strips. Adjacent to glorious and elegant architecture you will find hovels and desperate poverty. Tall skyscrapers are juxtaposed against decaying and uninhabitable dwellings.
Due to the population of 22 million people, the fortunate and financially able have fled to the former city borders and developed alternative housing and green space for the middle-class, a small sector compising the glorious, abundantly verdant private communities sprinkled around the highway. Interspersed are apartment dwelling units for the poor that are provided gratis as an alternative to the decaying areas the current government demolished to facilitate the modern infrastructure, housing and commercial development. Yet there still remain houses on the rural fringes of Cairo typically built of mud or fired brick, resembling traditional village housing in the hinterland.
Starting about 25 years ago, these expanded communities began to offer a viable alternative to central Cairo, now only 40 minutes by highway from downtown. These new highways—courtesy of the administration of President Sisi—are so impressive that they render most US highways second and third class. These newer zones of expanded Cairo include a series of small satellite towns built in desert areas, including the 10th of Ramadan City to the east and the 6th of October City and Sheik Zeide to the southwest. The expensive gated suburbs have sprung up around the major highway leading to these developments resplendent in luxury and facilities.
One could consider these neighborhoods to be Cairo suburbs for in them you find total autonomy: fine supermarkets, truly beautiful malls populated by some of the most recognized brands, excellent public and private schools, and lovely clubs. As Central Cairo is easily and quickly accessible, many employees commute to their offices, and some of the larger businesses have also moved into these more spacious and accessible locations.
However, Cairo still resonates with the richness of life both past and present. Dating from late Roman, Arab, and Ottoman times, it is the quintessential city, ever resonating with a melange of history and culture.
Cairo itself did not exist in ancient Egypt. However, it is often associated with Egypt’s ancient capital, Memphis, which was located about 15 miles (24 km) south of modern Cairo. Memphis is famous for its necropolis, where the Pyramids of Giza rest alongside the enigmatic and serene Sphinx and other smaller tombs and monuments.
Giza has three principal pyramids. Khufu, originally 481 feet high and sometimes called Cheops, or the Great Pyramid, is the only known surviving structure listed as one of the famed Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Alongside it are Khafre (471 feet); and Menkaure (213 feet).
It’s also worth noting that colossal statues are one of the hallmarks of ancient Egyptian civilization, and the Great Sphinx of Giza is the most famous. This mythical creature has a lion's body with a human head. It was carved directly out of the bedrock during the 4th Dynasty (c. 2613–2494 BC), which also makes it the oldest remaining monuments in Egypt. The Sphinx rested in sober slumber until the 1378 C.E., when a Sufi Muslim named Muhammad Sa'im al-Dahr conducted target practice resulting in the damage, and later the removal, of the nose, though the absolute facts are up for debate.
The area around Giza was ruled by King Menes, who united Upper and Lower Egypt. In the 1st century, the Romans built the Babylon fortress on the Nile, the oldest structure in the city. Cairo itself was established as the city of Fustat by the Fatimids in the 10th century. It was part of an extensive, semi-walled medieval city endowed with more than 400 registered historic monuments—including mosques, mausoleums, and massive stone gates—dating from 130 C.E.
The Cairo Citadel is an imposing fortress and wall built by Saladin, the founder of the Ayyubid dynasty. It was constructed in the 12th century—approximately 1176—as protection against the Crusaders. It served as the central seat of government for 700 years. During the country's occupation by the British in the early 1900s, the citadel was used as their stronghold following Egyptian independence. It later returned to its rightful patrimony and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the 1970s and was opened to the public in 1983.
The site also serves as the backdrop for the story of ruler Muhammad Ali, who is considered the key figure in ushering Egypt into the modern, industrialized world. He served as the de facto ruler of the nation from 1805 to 1848; before that, he was a military commander in an Albanian Ottoman force sent to recover Egypt from the French occupation under Napoleon. After a dramatic purge (he slaughtered all but one of his many banquet guests representing the multiple factions battling for control), the single remaining witness galloped his horse out of the upper courtyard and jumped hundreds of feet to his freedom, living to tell the story and the lesson that cemented Muhammad Ali's single leadership.
Of course, Cairo is also known for its many bazaars. Among the major world renowned bazaars is the Khān al-Khalīli, which can be found spilling out of the central walled city. It is an expansive assortment of shops and vendor spaces near al-Azhar Mosque. This large souk sells souveniers and crafts in addition to jewelry and clothing. Various markets, stalls, and shops offer gold and copperware, textiles, rugs, amber, spices, and leather goods, a true treasure trove for all visitors—and residents—whether they be young or old, rich or poor.
The Egyptian Museum in Cairo, venerably dusty but eternally significant, is always worth a visit, housing an extensive collection of Egyptian artifacts covering 5,000 years. It is the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East, home to over 170,000 artifacts, including iconic ancient Egyptian masterpieces from the prehistoric to the Greco-Roman period, a window into Egyptian culture, art, traditions, daily life and beliefs.
Back in 1925, Cairo was voted the most beautiful city in the world, as well as the cleanest! Its competition were cities like Paris, Berlin and London! Today with its rapidly renovating environment and hopes Egypt will be moving to a more open society, we await Cairo’s return to its former eminent status.